Included Hardware: M10 x 1.25mm x 30 mm (x18)  |  1/2"-13 x 1" Thread Cutting Bolt (x6)  |  5/16"-18 x 1" Hex Head Bolt (x2)  |  1/4" USS Washer (x2)  |  5/16"-18 Serr. Flange Nut (x2)  |  3/8"-16 x 1" Hex Head Bolt (x6)  |  5/16" USS Washer (x6)  |  M8 x 1.25mm x 25 mm (x2)  |  1/2"-13 x 1" Hex Head Bolt (x2)  |  7/16" USS Washer (x6)  |  1/2"-13 x 1-1/2" Hex Head Bolt (x2)  |  1/2-13 Nut (x2)

Included Hardware: 1/2"-13 x 1" Hex Head Bolt (x24) | 7/16" USS Washer (x24)  |  1/2"-13 Serr. Flange Nut (x24)  |  M6 x 1mm x 20mm (x10)  |  1/4" washer (x10)  |  M6 x 1mm Clip Nut (x10)  |  5/16"-18 x 1" (x28)  |  5/16" Washer (x28)  |  5/16"-18 Serr. Flange Nut (x16)  |  5/16"-18 Clip Nut (x12)

Included Part(s):  Front, Mid and Rear Slider Legs    |    1, 2 and 3 Nut strips

Notice: Many of the threaded holes in the frame of the vehicle may have painted threads. For this reason, it is helpful to tap the holes prior to the install. This requires an M10 x 1.25mm tap.

Begin by installing the rock lights on the inside of the ends of each slider using the 10-24 hardware and spacers.

Use 16 ga wire to tie the lights together. Extend a pig tail off of the wires where they meet. The pig tails should be stuck though the opening between the middle and rear mounting plates. The sliders are symmetric, so it can be decided which end is the rear and which end is the front at this point. 68" wire

The wiring should look something like the image shown. Cover each connector with heat shrink or electrical tape.

Bolt the skid plate onto the bottom of the slider using the 5/16" button heads and washers washers and flange nuts. 

Remove the three plugs shown with a pry tool. A lso remove the clip holding the hardline to the frame. With the exception of the hardline clip, this will be the same on both sides.

Remove the plastic panel underneath the body mount. To do this, use something like a screw driver to push up and in on the two recessed tabs while pulling down on the panel.

Reinstall the front mount. U se 1/2" self tappers on rear holes, and 1/2" bolt and nylock nut in the front with a washer on each side. reach through the hole below the body mount to tighten the through bolt.

On the Passenger's side, remove the bolts holding the fuel pump controller to the frame and move it out of the way temporarily.

Temporarily install the rear mount with M10 bolts in front and the factory fuel pump controller bolts (passenger) or another M10 bolt (driver) in the rear and mark the lower rear hole for drilling. 

Uninstall the rear mount and drill the hole out to 7/16" to accept a 1/2" self tapper.

Cut the small tab off of the fuel pump control module bracket. This can be done with tin snips.

Loosely reinstall rear mount, mounting the fuel pump control module back into its normal position stacked on the mount. This can again be done using the factory bolts.

The rear mount will need to go around the KDSS module on the driver's side if the vehicle is equipped with it. This can make it difficult to reach the top M10 bolt in the rear but it is accessible with a wrench through the cutout in the bottom of the mount.

Notice: Check that there is not contact between the lines coming off the KDSS module and the rear mount. If there is, the lines can be gently manipulated to eliminate the contact.

Finish loosely installing the mount and install the thread cutting bolt.  A 5/16" hex head bolt, 1/4" USS washer and flange nut should also be installed through the hole in the center of the mount. T hen, remove the front M10 bolts one last time to begin the install of the mid mount.

Loosely install the middle mount using the M10 bolts in the front and back. The back should mount over the front of the rear mount.

Slide the provided spacer in place between the frame and mount. 

If you are installing with our Transfer Case Skid, install the mount under the skid bracket as shown. The spacer will not be required in this case. 

Locate nut strip 3. Driver's side shown.

Install nut strip 3 using the 3/8" hex head and 5/16" USS washer as shown. Insert the nut strip through the hole in the side of the frame and rotate it to position the nut over the hole in the bottom.

Locate nut strips 1 (top Image) and 2 (bottom image). Driver's side shown.

Install nut strips 1 and 2 through front hole. Nut strip 1 installs though the side of the frame using a 1/2" bolt and 7/16" USS washer while the 2 installs through the bottom using the 3/8" bolt and 5/16" USS washer.

Install the slider onto the mounts using the 1/2" hex heads, 7/16" USS washer and flange nuts. It is best to do this with the mounts slightly loose.

Tape the wires down into the grooves so they can't get pinched when installing the steps.

Put all clip nuts onto the slider. The smaller M6 clip nuts go on the vertical flange while the larger 5/16" clip nuts go on the horizontal flanges.

Slide the step into the opening and adjust it until it is in place. Then, loosely install the M6 bolts and 1/4" washers into the top of the step.

Finally, install the tread plate on top of the step using the 5/16" bolts and washers.

Drill a 3/8" hole just above the slider plate. This will be used to secure the hardline so make sure the hole is far enough away from the plate for the factory clip to fit.

Insert the factory clip into the hole and clip the hardline in. Make sure that the line is does not rub against the slider mounts, frame or body.

Pop the plastic panel back in beneath the body mount and tighten all hardware to finish the install.