Included Hardware:
M10 x 1.25mm x 30 mm (x18) | 1/2"-13 x 1" Thread Cutting Bolt (x6) | 5/16"-18 x 1" Hex Head Bolt (x2) | 1/4" USS Washer (x2) | 5/16"-18 Serr Flange Nut (x2) | 3/8"-16 x 1-1/2" Hex Head Bolt (x6) | 5/16" USS Washer (x6) | M8 x 1.25mm x 25 mm (x2) | 1/2"-13 x 1" Hex Head Bolt (x2) | 7/16" USS Washer (x6) | 1/2"-13 x 1-1/2" Hex Head Bolt (x2) | 1/2-13 Nut (x2)
Included Hardware: 1/2"-13 x 1" Hex Head Bolt (x24) | 7/16" USS Washer (x24) | 1/2"-13 Serr. Flange Nut (x24) | M6 x 1mm x 20mm (x10) | 1/4" washer (x10) | M6 x 1mm Clip Nut (x10) | 5/16"-18 x 1" (x28) | 5/16" Washer (x28) | 5/16"-18 Serr. Flange Nut (x16) | 5/16"-18 Clip Nut (x12)
Included Part(s): Front, Mid and Rear Slider Legs | 1, 2 and 3 Nut strips
included Part(s): Slider boat, Step, Tread Plate and Skid Plate
Notice: Many of the threaded holes in the frame of the vehicle may have painted threads. For this reason, it is helpful to tap the holes prior to the install. This requires an M10 x 1.25mm tap.
Begin by installing the rock lights on the inside of the ends of each slider using the 10-24 hardware and spacers.
Use 16 ga wire to tie the lights together. Extend a pig tail off of the wires where they meet. The pig tails should be stuck though the opening between the middle and rear mounting plates. The sliders are symmetric, so it can be decided which end is the rear and which end is the front at this point. 68" wire
The wiring should look something like the image shown. Cover each connector with heat shrink or electrical tape.
Bolt the skid plate onto the bottom of the slider using the 5/16" button heads and washers washers and flange nuts.
Remove the three plugs shown with a pry tool. A
lso remove the clip holding the hardline to the frame. With the exception of the hardline clip, this will be the same on both sides.
Remove the plastic panel underneath the body mount. To do this, use something like a screw driver to push up and in on the two recessed tabs while pulling down on the panel.
Install the front mount using the M10 bolts from the bottom. Then mark the three remaining holes for drilling.
Remove front mount and drill each of the holes. The two rearmost holes need to be drilled to 27/64" to accept 1/2" self tapping bolts while the other hole needs to be drilled out to at least 9/16" to allow for a 1/2" bolt to pass freely through it.
Reinstall the front mount. U
se 1/2" self tappers on rear holes, and 1/2" bolt and nylock nut in the front with a washer on each side. Reach through the hole below the body mount to tighten the through bolt.
On the Passenger's side, remove the bolts holding the fuel pump controller to the frame and move it out of the way temporarily.
Temporarily install the rear mount with M10 bolts in front and the factory fuel pump controller bolts (passenger) or another M10 bolt (driver) in the rear and mark the lower rear hole for drilling.
Uninstall the rear mount and drill the hole out to 27/64" to accept a 1/2" self tapper.
Cut the small tab off of the fuel pump control module bracket. This can be done with tin snips.
Loosely reinstall rear mount, mounting the fuel pump control module back into its normal position stacked on the mount. This can again be done using the factory bolts.
The rear mount will need to go around the KDSS module on the driver's side if the vehicle is equipped with it. This can make it difficult to reach the top M10 bolt in the rear but it is accessible with a wrench through the cutout in the bottom of the mount.
Notice: Check that there is not contact between the lines coming off the KDSS module and the rear mount. If there is, the lines can be gently manipulated to eliminate the contact.
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