reinstallation. Wear eye protection when drilling or cutting.

Installation video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cY6-_7RHl7s 

• Use a trim tool to release the top center window trim, then both side pieces. Protect the paint if using a screwdriver.

• Remove the storage covers and empty the compartments. Remove the fastener inside with a 10mm socket.
• Pry off the small cover inside the grab handle and remove the Phillips screw.
• Pull gently around the panel edges to release the clips, including the interior clip. Support the panel and pull it straight off.

• Locate the two factory holes nearest the latch bracket shown above. Check behind them for wiring and other components.
• Enlarge both holes to 17/32 inch using the supplied bit. Use light pressure and limit drill depth; the sheet metal is thin

• Insert a supplied 5/16-inch nutsert into each hole using the included tool.
• Hold the tool’s large nut with an 11/16-inch wrench. Turn its bolt with a 1/2-inch socket until the nutsert is securely compressed. Remove the tool. Avoid overtightening; if using a drill, limit torque with its clutch.

• On the back of the panel, find the two upper clip mounts that line up with the nutserts. Slide out their factory clips.
• Drill a small pilot hole through the center of each clip opening and out through the panel face. Keep the drill square to the clip mounting surface.

• Cut the top off each clip mount flush with its surrounding edge. Remove the inner section blocking the spacer, leaving the three outer upright walls intact. Keep the pilot holes centered as you trim.
• Flip the panel face-up and enlarge both pilot holes to 3/4 inch with a step bit. Check that the aluminum spacers pass through freely.

• Clip the plastic panel back onto the door without reinstalling its screws. Insert the aluminum spacers into the new holes.
• Place the metal backing plate over the panel with the logo up and its small arrow pointing toward the vehicle. Start the two long 5/16-inch bolts through the plate and spacers into the nutserts. Center the plate, then snug the bolts.

• Use the backing plate as a template. Drill the side and bottom mounting holes through the plastic with a 1/4-inch bit.
• Use a 3/16-inch bit for the two cable holes, one on each side, shown above. Do not drill through the latch slots or bumper holes.
• Drill only through the plastic. Keep the bit from reaching wiring inside the door.

• Remove the two long bolts, backing plate, spacers, and plastic panel. Move the panels to a workbench.
• Attach the rubber latches to the backing plate’s vertical slots using the small cap screws and lock nuts. Center each latch in its slot with the pull tab facing down. Tighten with a 3/32-inch hex key and 1/4-inch wrench.
• Push and twist a rubber bumper into each hole directly below the latches.

• Align the backing plate with the holes in the plastic panel. Start the supplied 1/4-inch button-head bolts with flange lock nuts on the back.
• Align the support brackets that holds the center of the backing plate, to the sides of the backing plate together.
• Install a table bracket at each bottom corner’s paired holes. Face each bracket’s bolting flange inward and its upright tab upward. Use the same 1/4-inch hardware.
• Trim any plastic rib that prevents a nut from sitting flat. Check alignment, then tighten the hardware with a hex key that fits the bolt heads.
• Use the two smaller button heads bolts for bolting the bottom right backing plate onto the rear hatch plastic seen by the (red arrows)

• Insert the aluminum spacers from the back of the plastic panel. Place one nylon washer between each spacer and the metal backing plate.
• Keep the spacers aligned with the nutserts and press the panel clips into place. Check that no wiring is trapped.
• Start both long 5/16-inch bolts by hand, check alignment, then tighten.

• Reinstall the 10mm-head fastener, grab-handle Phillips screw, and screw cover.
• Snap the side and top window trim back into place. Reinstall the small cover beneath the rear glass, opening the glass for access. Return stored items and refit the storage covers.

• Support the folding Table section between the lower brackets with its flanges facing up.
• At each pivot, place a black nylon washer between the Table section and bracket tab. Install a 1/4-20 button-head bolt with a flange lock nut on the inside.
• Tighten with a correctly fitting hex key and 7/16-inch wrench. Make sure the table pivots freely.

• Keep supporting the table. Attach each cable end to the outside of its table side flange using the supplied cable screw, with the lock nut inside.
• Tighten before fitting the tabletop, which blocks access to the nuts. Leave the cable ends able to pivot slightly without rattling.

• Loosely install the three 1/4-inch bolts and flange lock nuts along the front of the Table section. 
• Fit the Molle sections 4 slots over the loose bolts, then tighten down while holding the molle panels front face flush with the table section.

• Set the tabletop flush with or slightly above the surrounding flange, never below it. Tighten all of the bolts.
• Fold the table up and engage both rubber latches. Adjust the latches in their slots if needed, then retighten so the table rests securely against the bumpers.
• Check all fasteners and trim clips. Confirm the table moves freely, both cables support it, and the rear door and glass operate normally with the table stowed.